No greener pastures; I thought Accra was like abroad – The life of ‘kayayei’ (Photos)

In the bustling city of Accra, the head porters, better known as “Kayayei,” are mainly young women and girls who migrate from the northern regions of Ghana to urban centres like Accra and Kumasi in search of better economic opportunities.

However, instead of finding prosperity, they often find themselves in dire economic conditions characterised by poverty, limited access to essential services and social marginalisation.

The term “Kayayei” is derived from the Ga language and refers to female head porters.

These women, typically between the ages of 8 and 45, have often dropped out of school or escaped harmful cultural practices such as forced marriage and female genital mutilation.

The journey south has become a generational pattern, often trapping these women in a vicious cycle of poverty and exploitation.

They work long hours, carrying heavy loads on their heads to markets and truck stations, helping traders and performing household chores under harsh conditions.

Despite their efforts, they earn minimal income and often become victims of abuse, victimization and exploitation.

Their rest periods are determined by the demand for their services, with Friday and Saturday being the busiest days.

Challenges and vulnerabilities

The ambitions of these young women – to earn money in Accra, return home, continue their education and start their own businesses – are often crushed by the harsh realities they face in the city.

Kayayei work in the informal sector for low wages and therefore lack access to basic health care and education, which keeps them living in poverty.

Many of them have to sleep in overcrowded and unsanitary conditions, exposing them to harsh weather conditions and health problems such as respiratory infections and skin diseases.

Furthermore, they are at high risk of sexual harassment, exploitation, stigmatization and violence, and have little to no legal protection or recourse against their abusers.

Despite these hardships, Kayayei show remarkable resilience in coping with the physical demands of their work.

They often take rest days when their health does not allow them to work, and then use painkillers to relieve the persistent pain instead of seeking proper medical care.

However, these coping mechanisms are far from ideal and can lead to further health problems.

Their low incomes and unstable living conditions pose major barriers to accessing quality health care.

In an interview with Adom News at the station in Tema, Farida, a Kayayoo (singular of Kayayei), expressed her disappointment:

“I thought Accra was like living abroad, but it is far from what I imagined. We sleep outside and have no access to enough food, so we only eat once a day.

If I had been home, I would have eaten tuo and slept well in my room. Here we are exposed to mosquitoes and the cold weather.

“I regret coming to Accra. I will not repeat this mistake in my next life.”

Kayayei are socially, politically and economically invisible and their contributions to the informal sector often go unnoticed.

Their situation underscores the need for measures that address the root causes of their migration, such as poverty and lack of economic opportunities in the northern regions of Ghana.

To address these challenges, comprehensive and sustainable solutions are needed.

Source: Naa Yarteley Acquah & Yayra Lawoe