Thousands of burgers sold after controversy over name inspired by Colombian drug lord Pablo Escobar

He expected to sell another 1,000 hamburgers during that period.

“There are still a lot of people who want to try it, so we decided to extend it for a few weeks and keep it going like that so everyone can try it.

“There were periods when people couldn’t book or couldn’t get in. We were so busy, so we postponed it a bit.”

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Pablo Escobar was a Colombian drug lord and leader of the Medellin Cartel.
Pablo Escobar was a Colombian drug lord and leader of the Medellin Cartel.

Drummond said sales were up 15-20% compared to the same period last year.

He admitted that the controversy surrounding the burger had been nerve-wracking from the start.

“I really had a few sleepless nights when we were knocked out of the Wellington on a Plate competition. We are so happy with the result and the support we have received from the community.

“Everyone we spoke to saw it for what it was – a tongue-in-cheek take on a Colombian hamburger – and no one in the room told us they found it terribly offensive.”

The experience hasn’t stopped Drummond from entering Wellington’s Burger Wellington competition next year.

“We believe we are making burgers that can win, so we want to enter again next year. Even though we don’t agree with the way they treated Ernesto’s and our entry this year, that won’t stop us from entering again next year.”

Why Colombia’s Embassy in Australia took offense

Esther Margarita Arias Cuentas, chargé d’affaires of the Colombian embassy in Australia, sent a letter to Drummond in July.

Regardless of the motives and creative process behind the dish, it was a “pleasant surprise” to discover that Colombian cuisine had been thrown into the same mix as a criminal responsible for the deaths of thousands of innocent people, Cuentas said.

“Ill-considered actions like these, which portray Colombian culture and its people in relation to the use of a harmful and illegal drug that has caused so much pain, suffering, death and distress, not only perpetuate prejudice, stereotypical discrimination and racism, but also generate a worrying deviation from the cold reality in which the problem of drug abuse becomes a matter of public health and safety and therefore must be condemned, not trivialized or praised.”

Jose Tombe, a member of the New Zealand Refugee Advisory Panel, also complained in a personal capacity, saying: Ernesto’s response ignored the traumatic history that Escobar’s legacy brought with it.

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“The drug cartel culture in Colombia has led to countless deaths and displacements, forcing many, including myself, to seek refuge in countries like New Zealand.”

Beth Brash, manager of Wellington On a Plate, said the burger should not have been considered for the competition in the first place.

“We have extensive guidelines for entrants to Wellington On a Plate and these guidelines make it clear that we will not accept entries that may be offensive.

“Unfortunately, our team didn’t fully understand that this burger would be offensive.”

Several members of the local Colombian community contacted him and explained that the concept was hurtful and offensive, Brash said.

Brash said Wellington On a Plate gave Ernesto’s the chance to change the burger, but the parties could not reach a compromise.

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The burger was therefore removed from the competition, Brash said.

Burger Wellington finalists announced

An independent jury will judge five finalists in the Burger Wellington competition before the winner is announced on Monday.

Zephyr Cafe’s A Frankenstein Adventure features spiced fried chicken with lettuce, cucumber, Olivo sambal and Mighty Greens microgreens in a pandan coconut sesame bun, with coconut and butterfly pea flower rice crisps.

A Frankenstein Adventure burger from Zephyr Cafe.
A Frankenstein Adventure burger from Zephyr Cafe.

Celebration of Spices from Sushil’s Musclechef Kitchen and Cafe features South Indian spiced dum chicken, masala egg, onion raita, tamarind date chutney, Kāpiti smoked cheddar in a Zaida’s Challah bun, Chettinad spiced fries, Saint John Apostle’s hot sauce aioli, and Food Nerd freeze-dried chilies.

Double Happiness from Apache contains two Dragon Express bao buns.

The first, Les Poules Epicees, has crispy fried chicken with spicy and salty caramel, makrut-lime mayonnaise, iceberg lettuce, Vietnamese herbs and house-made pickles.

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The second, Banh Mi Pork, consists of a pounded beef and pork burger with grilled pork belly, house-made pate, hot sauce, iceberg lettuce, Vietnamese herbs and house-made pickles.

The Double Happiness burgers from Apache.
The Double Happiness burgers from Apache.

Mucho Crunch Birria from Elemental Eats features a pounded beef burger with Birria pulled beef, mozzarella, peppercorn sauce, fried corn tortilla, red onion, coriander, jalapeño and sour cream in a Ben’s Buns milk brioche bun, with consommé for dipping.

One80’s Nawabi Galouti features a Galouti lamb burger, pulled lamb shoulder filo cigar, lamb snow, ghee, coriander, Zany Zeus mint labneh and chicory in a Clareville Bakery croissant bun, with gunpowder podi fries.

Brash said the competition this year was fierce and fun.

“Burger Wellington is more than an annual celebration of the humble burger – it’s a chance for chefs to showcase their skills and creativity – and boy, were the Wellington chefs creative this year! We’ve had burgers inspired by everything from roadkill to Willy Wonka.”

Georgina Campbell is a Wellington-based reporter with a particular interest in local government, transport and seismic issues. She joined the Herald in 2019 after working as a broadcast journalist.

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