From steaks to sushi, Shane Middleton leaves 6HEAD for a niche role at cool Japanese restaurant Papi Katsu

From an average of 1500 covers per week to just 42, Shane Middleton is downsizing.

After making the hugely popular high-end steakhouse 6HEAD on Elizabeth Quay sizzle last year, the 34-year-old Perth chef will head up the omakase offering at another hugely popular venue, Japanese ‘fun diner’ Papi Katsu .

Middleton is creating a ‘non-traditional’ omakase, or chef’s choice, leaning heavily on local seafood at the neon-lit underground izakaya on the city’s St Georges Terrace.

He and sushi chef Jason Tan will essentially run a restaurant within a restaurant, feeding seven people per shift: one seat on Wednesdays and Thursdays, and two on Fridays and Saturdays.

Although Middleton says he learned a lot at 6HEAD, a big, bustling steak joint “just wasn’t right for me.”

Given his experience at fine diners Dinner by Heston Blumenthal in London and Melbourne – and at Fleur at The Royal, which fused French cuisine and Japanese flavors during his tenure – he was keen to return to his strong suit.

At Fleur, Middleton worked closely with chef Chase Weber, one of the masterminds of the Sesh Mafia group behind Papi Katsu, Subiaco’s Mod Asian restaurant Shui and downtown bar, deli and wine shop Margot’s.

These three locations are all imbued with a fun, creative and experimental spirit.

“We take it seriously, but not too seriously,” says Middleton, who joins a like-minded, fast-growing hospitality team that also includes award-winning Perth chef Leigh Power, cocktail king Eoin Kenny and vibes guru Benny Tua.

Sesh Mafia plans to launch more locations in 2024, including cerveza bar Lupe’s and charcoal chicken restaurant Larry’s.

Culinary director Chase Weber revealed that Sesh Mafia plans to collaborate with Middleton on a restaurant next year.

“We are always looking for the best talent we can find for our rapidly growing company,” he said, describing Middleton as an “exceptional” fine-dining chef.

But in the meantime, one of Perth’s best in Papi Katsu will be busy creating Japanese dishes that are stimulating for both diners and chef.

“I want to have fun,” says Middleton, “and create fun food.”