Buttermilk dives into fragrance with fresh contents

Fragrance is more popular than ever. In the US, where the daily fragrance habit is still in its infancy compared to Europe, prestige fragrances grew 12% last year, with luxury brands outperforming cheaper types.

“Doubling, doubling, doubling our revenue, our production and our workforce from 2021 to 2023. Our belief in creator marketing has turned into a playbook on how to do it right and how to do it best,” according to the website Buttermilk calls itself a community-first creator agency.

“You think about that creative direction and what it means from an influencer perspective,” says Jamie Ray, founder and CEO of Buttermilk. “We’ve worked with thousands of creatives who embodied that. They were very out there. We called them the Mugler Mafia (Mugler is a customer). The content was very provocative, very avant-garde, super sensual and the creative direction captured a mood and a feeling. Even if someone couldn’t smell it, if I’m the consumer, I understand exactly what that smell represents. It’s more effective than Kate Moss’s billboard. You can really tell a story.”

While Ray doesn’t regularly hire stars for content, he said, “There is a place for bigger talent with the elusive ‘wow’ factor. That can be linked to a broader strategy that feels more authentic and grassroots. You need to know how this smell exists in your life. I understand Gen Z. I buy perfume and it’s not just about how it smells, it’s about my lifestyle. How does that fit on my shelf.”

Ray understands what the niche brands he helps develop need. “We knew that influencer marketing was a new but effective way to achieve marketing ROI, but we still had to influence a lot before our first customers believed it.”

It’s not always easy being a big player. “Sometimes it’s tough for big conglomerates like Unilever and Coty,” Ray said. “It’s hard to reinvent yourself. They are not built to be agile. They often adopt these brands because they also acquire their identity. They also buy their reputation and an audience built around the brand.”

Based in London, Ray said: “One of the largest and most interesting markets for fragrance is the Middle East. The luxury sector is positively booming. It’s such fertile ground. In China, the luxury sector is stagnating, if not in decline. Many more eyes are turning to the Middle East.”

Fragrance is a luxury item, but its price is not excessive, Ray said. When Buttermilk does its work for Prada, consumers can get a taste of Prada for less than $200. “You don’t have to go to a department store and buy a $3,000 handbag,” Ray said. “You get that taste of luxury for a much lower price. When you think of the fashion houses that have entered the beauty industry, fragrance is always there. They can bring that Gen Z consumer into their wheelhouse without spending a terrible amount of money. It allows these brands to work with new audiences and attract that younger Gen Z customer.”